By Diana Pilsworth. October 2003

Despite the Algarve’s reputation as a tourist mecca, the coast of Portugal east of Faro has remained virtually undeveloped and as a result, has retained much of its original charm. The natural beauty of the coast as well as the inland areas to the north reveal much more of the real Portugal than the popular resort towns further to the west. With this in mind, and because travel in October was a scheduling "must", we six Ottawa women decided to search for a villa in the sunny Algarve, preferably in a location that would take us away from the tourist hordes. The Internet did not disappoint! After diligent searching, we found and became seduced by the enticing images of beautiful Monte das Figueiras. And to our delight, Monte’s secluded and very private hilltop location near the little Portuguese town of Estoi was barely an hour’s drive from Faro’s International Airport where we would disembark and collect our rental cars. We contacted the owners immediately and were thrilled to discover that Monte was available for the two weeks in October that we had agreed to spend in Portugal.

ARRIVAL!

A long journey from Canada to our hilltop villa left us all feeling very tired! After arriving in Faro and picking up our rental cars, shopping for groceries in a huge unfamiliar super mercado, navigating an uncertain 30 kilometre route, (hadn’t we all agreed that we wanted to be away from it all??!!) and finding eventually, the obscure roadside post box containing the key to our Portugese villa, it was a relief to finally arrive

Monte das Figueiras was our most opulent villa yet, offering every possible amenity and comfort. The interior was not only elegant and spacious, but also surprisingly homey and comfortable, while the surrounding grounds were equally outstanding. Monte was wonderfully positioned and from its hilly perch, we nomads were treated to a mesmerizing panoramic view of the nearby hills and the distant shimmering Atlantic. And while the extensive lower terraces were left in as natural a state as possible, the upper ones, more formal, were lush and verdant with an amazing array of flowering shrubs, mature trees and all manner of exotic plants. A large Moorish pillared veranda abutting our ten-metre swimming pool further enhanced the ambience and feeling of absolute luxury. This veranda became one of our favourite places to relax and enjoy an evening glass of wine as the setting sun spread her rainbow colours across the sky. We could not believe our good fortune. But after a night’s rest in this quiet and wonderful place, time to get out the maps and begin our Algarvian adventure.

OLHAO BECKONS!

Olhao, a little white town just east of Faro on the Algarvian coast was nearby and waiting to be explored. Only a half an hour’s easy if somewhat convoluted drive from our villa, Olhao had begun, many years ago, as small village whose town folk lived exclusively from the sea. But even now, many years later, fishing is still important economically to Olhao and all along the seafront, many brightly coloured fishing boats bobbed up and down in the sparkling waters of the harbour.

Olhao has its share of restaurants , some better than others, but not surprisingly fish is always a main feature, in particular, Atlantic golden bream or "dourado", and of course, the delicious and for some, mouth-watering silver-coloured sardines. (But forget the fish stew! Thick, unpalatable and loaded with garlic! A gastronomic experience never to be repeated!) With its attractive waterfront, palm tree lined Avenida Republica and the old town with its narrow cobble stoned streets, Olhao was a delightful place to visit.

"Are you bringing back any Portugese fig cakes, she enquired?". One by one we confessed. We had neglected to declare our carefully packed Portugese delicacies! "No problem" the officer reassured us with a smile, but be more careful next time!

VISIT TO LOULE ABORTED!

Guidebooks told us that nearby Loule’s Saturday market was a "must". While still a little tired and jet lagged , we were up at 7:30 on day three and ready to go. But this was not to be! An unanticipated flashing icon on the dashboard of the "Toledo", one of two our rental cars, was definitely a cause for concern. Better be attended to right away! Deciphering the intent of the flashing icon brought forth some very creative interpretations! Did this icon represent an oilcan or was it the engine we should be worried about? No one knew for sure. So back to the villa and a hasty telephone call to Europcar.

"Our nearest location is Azinheiro", we tell Palma of Europcar. "And where is that?" comes Palma’s courteous reply. Easier said than done!

Tiny Azinheiro, about a ten-minute drive from Monte, is barely an intersection , and quite impossible to find on any but the largest scale maps! But Palma listened patiently and finally understood our rather imprecise directions. He quickly agreed to send the Europcar rep to meet us outside the small bar in Azenheiro, and with the warning icon still flashing, we drove the faulty vehicle safely to our agreed upon rendezvous. We sat patiently waiting for road assistance to arrive.

What we did not expect to see was a large trailer with a royal blue BMW Passat perched on its flatbed come slowly up the hill, draw to a dramatic halt and in so doing, completely fill the small Azinheiro crossroads! A burly smiling driver stepped down from the cab and approached the failing Toledo, turned on the ignition and peered inside at the flashing icon. "Electrical", he said bluntly. "Finished"......... And with that cryptic comment, he proceeded to gently but efficiently unload the sporty BMW Passat from the flatbed. The failing Toledo was then rolled back onto the empty trailer and our problem was solved. With an "Adios" and "Obrigada" to the driver, we hopped into the sporty BMW Passat ready to move on.

And on the way "home", as our cars and drivers boldly attacked the long narrow hilly approach to Monte, a large flock of goats, bells tinkling, returned from grazing in the nearby hills. The goatherd expertly manoeuvred his flock past our now stationary vehicles, as we watched and waited, entranced, reflecting on a pastoral scene that could soon be lost and forgotten.

SAO BRAS DE ALPORTEL and the POUSADA.

With four of our six travellers being "Librans", an October birthday celebration was essential. Reading material at the villa had highlighted a nearby Pousada. (Portugese pousadas are typically elegant but old buildings purchased and owned by the government and restored to function as high-class rather expensive hotels.) We made a reservation and were once more on the open road. The Pousada Sao Bras, while close to the market town of Sao Bras de Alportel, is set in a peaceful countryside location with magnificent views of the surrounding mountains, the shimmer of the Atlantic off in the distance. The elegant building, white-walled and red-roofed, is strategically perched high on a hill dotted with Portugese heather and ochre-trunked cork trees . The pousada’s interior was peaceful and elegant while the spacious dining room with its large picture windows provided wonderful views of the surrounding countryside.

"Please sit down", a polite waitress quietly invited us in Portugese. And we responded, with the now familiar "Obrigada". Thereupon began another lunch of significant proportions that lasted from 1:30 to 4:00!! Hor’s d’oeuvre, a million cheeses, scrumptious main dishes and luscious desserts! Another amazing Portugese repast.

On the way back to Monte, we decided on a brief visit to Sao Bras de Alportel, partly out of interest but also to walk off the enormous meal we had just enjoyed. Both Roman and Muslim civilizations are said to have left their mark here but our limited time was not enough to investigate. But we did see whitewashed houses, coated with lime to reflect the heat of the baking summer sun, their facades decorated with tiles, ornate stonework, and cast iron verandas - all of this reminiscent of a bygone time when Sao Bras had flourished as the largest producer of the cork in the world. But the cork industry has partially shifted to other parts of Portugal and Sao Bras now reflects a more tranquil unhurried atmosphere, which we found very appealing.

FARO: THE TOWN MOST TOURISTS MISS.

Faro is the capital of the Algarve, perhaps the "Ossonoba" of which ancient peoples spoke. It now bears little resemblance to the Moorish city conquered by King Alfonso in 1249. Instead, Faro has become the major gateway to the popular sunny south coast of Portugal. Many tourists travelling to the Algarve simply use Faro as a necessary stop en route to the nearby well-known beach resorts to the west but as we were only half an hour’s drive from Faro, we decided to explore this "typical Portugese small town". We were not disappointed. Cafes set around small squares, a harbour with wonderful views and much of historical interest easily allowed a full and interesting day out

Our chosen landmark became the beautiful Igregia de Carmo with its sparkling white twin-towered facade. The interior of this handsome church is overwhelmingly ornamental and elaborate but at the same time very peaceful. And organ pipes protrude as if to shout their message aloud to anyone willing to listen. We spent several reflective minutes trying to absorb and remember the opulence and rich interior before beginning our search for the historic heart of Faro and its cathedral or Se.

The old town, entered by the Arco da Vila, an 18^th century arch where storks have chosen to nest, is dominated by the Se, a large and cavernous cathedral we were not allowed to enter. But 68 steps up a very narrow and claustrophobic exterior stairway led us eventually to the cathedral’s rooftop and belfry where the views out gave a panoramic bird’s eye view of the town and countryside beyond. After sunning, viewing and picture taking, we made a cautious descent. Back then to the more modern town centre which was attractively pedestrian zed, and full of shops that were more stylish than you would expect in a relatively unheralded location like Faro. All in all, definitely a recommended destination.

DAY 8: THE JOYS OF THE BACK ROAD: QUERENCA, SALIR AND ALTE.

The three small mountain villages of Querenca, Salir and Alte (pronounced Alt) were a must. (Our past practice has always been to experience the joy of the back roads, despite the ruts and wrong turns that invariably accompany this sort of travel.) Querenca with a steep access from the main road is a small rather empty looking whitewashed village perched high upon a windy hill. But unexpectedly and somewhat out of character, we discovered several opulent-looking villas, probably summer residences of the rich and famous, their extensive gardens filled with a plethora of rainbow hued blossoms . No time to dally though, as Salir and Alte were also part of this countryside day out.

Well, as for Salir, we barely saw it! Another steep continuously narrowing roadway into this mountain village was most intimidating! Hazardous, non-navigable , no exit alleyways. A quick walk around the castle wall sufficed. No doubt we missed the most important historic sights but enough is enough. We opted for a quick exit and were soon on our way to Alte, the most well-known of these three tiny villages.

Reputed to be one of the most beautiful and typical of the Portugese villages, Alte perches on the edge of the hills of the Serra do Caldeirao. Here we enjoyed magnificent scenic views as we meandered lazily through the quiet winding streets. By following the path of the glistening stream that flowed along the edge of the village, we finally reached "Fonte Pequena", (tiny fountain), a secluded and peaceful waterside restaurant where we lunched in the company of swans and ducks who quietly swam nearby.

WE VENTURE INTO TOURIST TERRITORY!

Under another azul blue sky, we head west for the more well known attractions of Silves, Carvoeiro. and Algor Seco. With our cars in convoy, we drive quickly and smoothly along the IP I, a high quality busy arterial that crosses Portugal from east to west. We see the Atlantic shimmering brightly on one side, while the countryside on the other is one of rolling hills that spread out around us like a green and brown tapestry. As we approach Silves, with its famous castle becoming prominent in the distance, row upon row of orange and lemon trees begin to dot the landscape.

Silves castle is a huge sandstone-faced structure that totally dominates the red-roofed town sprawled at its feet. The entrance is through an imposing metal gateway where just inside we could see an attractive and inviting outdoor café. We soon filled small round tables in a leafy courtyard for our morning "laite", watched all the while by several small kittens quietly sunning themselves from a perch in a nearby tree.

While nothing of the castle interior remains, the exterior walls are amazingly intact and from the eight towers, a panoramic view of the countryside spreads out all around. The raised interior pathway leading from one tower to another while quite safe, was unfenced and the possibility that a misstep could be disastrous, saw most of us clinging to the inside wall as we crept along. Meanwhile, the blue of a cloudless sky and the warmth of the sun was a balm for body and soul...Silves..a visual treat to be savoured and remembered, but now south and further west to the bustling coastal resort town of Carvoeiro.

It didn’t take long to realize that this was not a place we wanted to be. The traffic and pedestrian congestion was overwhelming for first time visitors and driving definitely hazardous. A quick stop for the usual lunch and then to Algar Seco, site of one of Portugal’s famous coastal rock formations. Here, local limestone has been carved and eroded over the years into the most astonishing configurations by the incessant pounding of the sea . Rocky red cliffs that overhang narrow beaches below, are laced with twisting caves, arches and tunnels, some of which eventually lead down to the turbulent water’s edge. We pluck up our courage and explore, carefully following each other along the twisted lumpy pathways, always in sight of the blue waters pushing their way relentlessly into the rocky crevices below. And in spite of significant tourist activity, we conclude that nothing can detract from the dramatic coastal beauty of Algar Seco, that has so far, remained natural and unsullied

A plethora of guide books, by now dog-eared, were always perused diligently prior to every excursion! And on the second Saturday after arrival, the unanimous target was to try for the market in Loule, once again.. (Held only on Saturday) We had been warned that an early arrival was essential, well before 9:00, or parking would be impossible. In optimistic preparation for such an early morning start, we toddled off to bed early hoping for a good night’s sleep. But the gods were against us and in the middle of the night, booming thunder bursts rattled the house and streaks of lightning flashed across the darkened sky. The heavens opened up, (as they are wont to do in Portugal, we discovered) and sheets of rain, driven by a howling wind, battered the windows and doors of our hill top villa. Eventually, the really wild weather ceased, but heavy rain continued to pour down. Sleep had eluded us for well over an hour but eventually calm was restored and quiet fell once more over Monte das Figueiras.

The alarm, as planned, went off at 7:00 but alas, no electricity! Nothing for it but back to bed, snuggle down and wait for power to be restored. Several hours still dark and a call to Tina, our villa contact, seemed essential. "Just find the circuit breaker in the wall panel and flick the switch to on" said Tina. We felt a little foolish as we realized, in retrospect, that clear directions had been provided in the information manual left for us at the villa. But it’s all part of the game and with the lighting problem now solved, the Loule market looked possible once again!

So off went our cavalcade with the rain still teeming down around us. But the market at Loule was, after all, not to be! Every street was lined with vehicles parked in every available spot...wherever a square inch of space prevailed...on curbs, beside potted plants and even in the middle of the road. Endless manoeuvring on the part of our stalwart and patient drivers proved fruitless and the vote was taken to abandon Loule in favour of a return to "known" territory. Of course, where else! Montcarapacho and Antoino’s, our favourite restaurant. Another amazing meal, finished off with more of that luscious walnut cake. And stuffed full once more, we made a splashy return back to the tranquillity of Monte das Figueiras.

SUNDAY: A QUIET DAY AT "HOME".

More thunder and lightning in the middle of the night. Loud claps shook the doors and windows. And as the winds continued to freshen, poolside umbrellas strained to make it to freedom and almost succeeded! A bad omen for Sunday perhaps? But around 10:00 a.m. the sun began to shine again, and one of our group bravely decided to experience the pool, untested to date! The pool thermometer reflected a slowly declining temperature as the heater, expensive to operate, had been turned off. But once the initial shock was absorbed and the coolness accommodated, how crisp and refreshing was that early morning dip. how amazing to swim and splash in such a magnificent setting!

After lunch, some were ready for a quieter day and decided on an exploration of nearby Azinheiro, the minute centre of our Algarvian world.

Well, Azinheiro’s tiny intersection was unbelievably busy!! Cars, vans and motorcycles whizzed by, going where, we didn’t know. But those looking for a more leisurely pace gathered inside and outside the unpretentious bar, always welcomed by the friendly owners, Marie and her husband, both of whom spoke very good English.

They were familiar with Monte das Figueiras. "Visitors return to this area time and time again, they so enjoy the peace, tranquillity and magnificent scenery", Marie politely told us. Out on the porch, we sipped a cold refreshing drink; munched on a delicious tostada ( a toasted sandwich,) and luxuriated peacefully in the warmth of the afternoon sun.

TAVIRA: THE TOWN OF THIRTY-SEVEN CHURCHES.

A close review of our now well-worn map, indicated that Tavira would be a relatively easy drive from Monte, and a return trip in one day was completely possible. The sky was its usual cloudless blue and in about one and a half hours, we had reached Tavira, a handsome and historic town, famous among other things, for its thirty-seven churches, a seeming record in one location!.

Placed well to the east of the Algarve , Tavira lies on either side of the River Gilao. And all along this river’s edge , riverside cafes, restaurants offering huge platters of fresh fish ready for inspection , and little shops make Tavira a lively and interesting place to visit.

After the usual fuss parking the cars, we wandered into the old part of town, and crossed the ancient picture-postcard Roman bridge, a perfect vantage point from which to admire the many elegant and ornate 18^th century mansions. And while Tavira does emphasize tourism, it has managed to remain dignified and picturesque. Orange trees, heavy with the scent of blossom, and houses with dazzling whitewashed walls all added to Tavira’s many charms. But our day, as usual, sped quickly by and soon we were on our way back to the villa that by now had become "home".

ST BARABARA DE NEXE, CHURCH OF SAN LORENZO AND ALMANCIL

A quick peep through the curtains of our cosy bedrooms once again revealed lowering skies and a definite threat of the now familiar but usually short-lived Algarvian downpour. The far Atlantic horizon had disappeared in a grey mist and the likelihood of a day out looked pretty hopeless. But, amazingly, before too long, little patches of blue began to appear in the cloudy turbulent skies above, the pelting rain soon became a trickle and planning for the day began in earnest.

First on the itinerary was a stop at St Barbara de Nexe., a tiny and compact Portugese village not far from Azinheiro. Here is where we met friendly attractive Tina Minshall, manager and owner of Tina Minshall Holidays, the local firm responsible for managing our villa in the owner’s absence.

" Santa Barbara de Nexe", explained Tina, "is a traditional unspoilt Portugese village in the centre of the "real" Algarve. This is a little known region that has some of the finest holiday villas that Portugal has to offer. While typically bustley when it needs to be, it has lively cafes, as well as the indispensable little shops... At the same time, Santa Barbara offers wonderful peace and quiet in delightful surroundings."

We had lots of questions for Tina, which she most obligingly answered, among them, directions to Sesil, a well-known and popular ceramic store in nearby Almancil. As we had satisfied our daily requirement of coffee and "treats" at the Café Central in Santa Barbara, off we went to find Sesil. Once there, the shoppers among us went to work with a vengeance! Such an array of ceramics of all shapes and sizes and colours. How to choose from this wide and encompassing array of these locally produced wonders is a huge challenge. No question that the storage capacity of our suitcases would be challenged when the time came to pack for the trip home!

But the day was not yet over and our final stop was the church of Sao Lourenco, one of the Algarve’s cultural gems. The Portugese lady attendant who guarded the entrance to the church, unlike the majority of her friendly fellow patriots, brusquely demanded our entrance fee, this in contrast to the serene atmosphere that prevailed inside this beautiful and ornate church. The interior is completely covered with the famous Portugese blue azulejos tiles formed into panels depicting episodes from the life of St Laurence. And the only way to properly view the ceiling, which was also resplendent with tile "stories", was by gazing reverently heavenward while lying flat on our backs on the pews!

But a long but satisfying day was now over and soon we were whizzing along the IP I and on our way "home" once again.

WE DISCOVER THE REAL ALGARVE.

We persist in our efforts to discover the real Algarve, and Alcoutim, a tiny unspoilt gem of a village, is our destination today. The journey would first take us east along the IP 1 almost to the Portugese-Spanish border. And then we would head north to Alcoutim on a lesser road running alongside the River Guadiana, a majestic waterway that for many miles, forms a natural border with Spain.

For this particular day out, we had decided to rent an 8-passenger minivan and driver. (We have very successfully rented a minivan and driver from home via the Internet on previous trips and found it a wonderfully relaxing way to see the sights.) We set out early. We wanted as much sightseeing time as possible.

En route, we are able to make a flying visit across the modern motorway suspension bridge that crosses the Guadiana to the town of Ayamonte on the Spanish side. But Ayamonte, while a pleasant enough place with interesting shops, cafes and bars, cobbled alleyways and an attractive central square, reflected a busy urban atmosphere that was not appealing to us. We yearned once more for open countryside and the roads less travelled. So our stay in Aymonte was short. We were soon cosseted in our comfy minivan with reliable Lino at the wheel, eagerly anticipating our arrival in Alcoutim. But we could not have imagined the beauty and magnificence of the landscapes that we would witness along the way. Most of our route ran parallel to the River Guadiana, a winding blue ribbon that plies its way through a lonely and dramatic landscape of harsh beauty... mountainous and undulating, but softened here and there by cool and verdant greens of riverside vegetation. The brown ochre of the landscape is dotted with olive trees heavily laden with their tiny green ovals, and miniature houses, gleaming white in the sunlight, huddle in small hamlets.... almost lost among the sloping hills. The aromatic Gum Cistus bushes perfume the air while pine trees lift their spreading fingers toward the cloudless sky. We reflect and quietly savour this still unspoilt, serene and beautiful corner of the real Portugal.

Lino follows the high inland route home and another kind of scenic beauty unfolds before us but we must return to Monte, tired, refreshed and in love with this unspoilt part of the Algarvian countryside.

DEPARTURE and A SAD FAREWELL.

Departure from Faro was scheduled for the outrageous hour of 6:20a.m. And returning the cars before our flight that same morning looked like a timing nightmare. So we decided to use the Europcar drop off the previous afternoon and arrange with Lino for taxis back to Faro airport the morning of our departure. Europcar then courteously offered to provide a minibus and driver to return us to our villa.

But one of our group had accidentally dropped her purse on the floor of the van. The loss was discovered at the villa several hours later. We made a frantic call to our friend, Palma, at Europcar. "One of our drivers will deliver the missing purse to Monte das Figueiras at 7:00 this evening" replied Palma helpfully and as expected, the driver arrived promptly at the pre-arranged hour with the missing purse in hand. Profuse thanks from the owner! "No problem Ma’am and no charge", was the friendly reply. We highly recommend Europcar in Portugal. Wonderful service and polite helpful staff.

On morning of our departure, alarms jangled at 3:45 am and we left our villa for the last time one hour later. Lino and the two taxis arrived right on time and we were soon speeding through the darkness, on our way to Faro’s International Airport. We were so grateful for competent drivers who knew exactly where to go and we realized that our decision to return the rental cars the afternoon before was a splendid idea. The few lights on at that early hour twinkled as we rushed by and in a mere twenty minutes we were safely deposited at Faro’s busy airport, already bustling with many other travellers. We reached Ottawa uneventfully twenty hours later, very tired but flooded with never-to-be-forgotten memories of Monte das Figueiras and the charming Eastern Algarve.

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